I hate wasting food. I’m borderline obsessive about it (probably minus the “borderline” part). And because I hate wasting food, I’ll pretty much eat anything in the spirit of Not Wasting It—which is why I’m sometimes referred to as a human garbage disposal around my household.
One time Doug and I made pumpkin ravioli with a gorgonzola cheese sauce. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I hated it. It wasn’t that bad the night we made it, but we had a lot of leftovers. Even though I found the dish disgusting, I packed a big serving of the gorgonzola monstrosity for my lunch every single day of that workweek. By Friday, I was gagging on it—and to this day, I won’t touch gorgonzola cheese (the mere thought of it repulses me). But none of it went to waste, so I don’t regret my choices.
The other day, I made a big pot of curry vegetable noodle soup. I’d made this dish before, and it was delicious. The reason I’ve made this dish twice now is because when I make a slow-cooker beef roast with vegetables (as I did recently), I like to use the drippings as a base for a soup stock. So the whole point of the curry noodle soup stems from not wanting good drippings from a previous meal to go to waste.
But during this most recent soup adventure, disaster struck. The soup was on the stovetop and almost done—but Doug was going to be later getting home from work than I thought. So I turned the pot to low and just left it on the stove. I let time get away from me a bit, and by the time we were both home and ready to eat, the wide rice noodles in the soup had become terribly mushy. It was pretty awful. We choked it down, but the thought of suffering through the leftovers was too much for even me (this is saying something).
I couldn’t bear to actually throw the whole thing away—after all, we’re talking about all kinds of organic vegetables, a lot of noodles, and curry spices. It wasn’t the ingredients’ fault; it was just the damned mushy texture that made the stuff inedible. I was in a pickle.
Doug suggested that, rather than toss the food in the trash or compost, I use the “mush” as a filling in a pastry-like concoction. I didn’t like the sound of that (blegh), but it did give me an idea. The next day, I spooned a few globs of the curry noodle mush into the food processor (don’t judge me, if that’s what you’re starting to do).
Then I mixed the puréed soup-gone-bad into my standard cornbread recipe in hopes of making cornbread muffins.
The idea seemed to be working so far ...
Here’s the recipe I used for these cornbread muffins:
Ingredients:
2 cups organic cornmeal
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 egg (from a pastured hen)
1 cup organic milk
About 1 cup dinner-gone-wrong purée
Instructions:
Mix the cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda and salt in one large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg and milk. Mix the dry ingredients, wet ingredients and dinner-gone-wrong purée until combined. Add to greased muffin pan. Bake muffins in a 400-degree oven for about 20 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean.
These muffins weren’t bad at all. They weren’t going to win a blue ribbon at the Cornbread Muffin Awards, but they were totally and completely edible. Because they were edible, I made more of the purée and put it in 1-cup servings in the freezer so I could continue on with this worthy and perhaps crazy project of not wasting the mushy curry noodle soup.
What do you think? Might you consider breaking out the food processor the next time a meal goes awry, and folding the puréed result into another recipe? Or, rather, do you suspect I am in need of psychological help?
Photos by Shelley Stonebrook
April 21, 2013
Garden Watering Tips
If you’re an advanced gardener or a small-scale farmer,
chances are that you have an efficient irrigation system set up for growing
food crops. If you’re new to gardening, though, an irrigation system is
probably the last thing on your mind (you’re more worried about the basic
matters of life vs. death when it comes to your plants). And that’s OK.
Even still, you will need to water your crops—and there are
a few simple garden watering tips to keep in mind when you do.
1. Water Deeply
Watering your garden very thoroughly and deeply less often
is better than watering it moderately to lightly more often. In other words,
watering it heavily every three days is much better than watering it lightly
every day.
There are practical reasons for this. If you water heavily,
the water gets deep down into the soil—down to the plants’ roots. As a few days
pass between waterings, your plants’ roots will actually stretch and grow down
deeper to access the water that’s further down. On the other hand, if you water
lightly every day, you encourage your plants to only grow shallow roots that
hover around the soil surface. Watering deeply less often means you’ll have
healthier, more deeply rooted crops. Plus, you ’ll save water in the long run.
Note: The above advice is for an established garden. If you just planted seeds, you may very well need/want to water those lightly every day as they germinate and grow strong.
Note: The above advice is for an established garden. If you just planted seeds, you may very well need/want to water those lightly every day as they germinate and grow strong.
2. Don’t Underestimate the Power of Mulch
Mulching is like magic. Applying an organic mulch material—such
as grass clippings (make sure they’re from a chemical-free lawn), leaves, hay
or straw (or a combo of these materials)—deeply around your established garden crops has
many benefits. One of those benefits is holding in moisture, meaning every time
you water, more of the moisture will stay in the ground under the layer of
mulch rather than evaporating.
A thick layer of organic mulch also yields the benefits of
suppressing weeds and adding organic matter (and thus increased fertility) to your soil as the mulch decomposes. Mulch is a win-win-win. I can’t emphasize
enough how great mulch is for your garden. And don’t be shy applying it: Some
experts recommend that your mulch layer be 9 to 12 inches deep. You’ll notice
the benefits even with just a few inches of mulch material though. (Stealing the bags of leaves neighbors set out on the curb = smart and awesome, by the way.)
3. Don’t Water in the Heat
This is a more obvious tip, but don’t water your garden in
the heat of the day. Hot weather will lead to more water evaporating and less soaking down into the soil. Water in the evening or early morning instead.
4. Try a Timer
Setting up a hose and sprinkler to a timer (such as this Orbit Garden Hose Digital Timer) can
be super helpful, especially if you’re going to be out of town and won’t be
around to water your garden. You can set the timer to turn on for a couple of
hours every three days.
Follow these basic garden watering tips, and not only will your
garden grow better, you’ll save a lot of money on your water bill. After you get the hang of food gardening, you might start looking at other watering options, such as soaker hoses or rain water collection. Happy
growing!
Photo by Flickr/mrsdkrebs
Photo by Flickr/mrsdkrebs
Tags:
gardening,
mulch,
starting a garden,
water use
April 20, 2013
How to Plant a Garden: Direct-Sow Vegetables and Crops to Grow from Starts
One of my favorite things in life is talking to people who are starting a food garden for the very first time. Such conversations make me overjoyed. I love picking their brains, helping them plan what they might grow, answering questions, and even helping with the physical garden work. If I could be a full-time vegetable gardening consultant, I’d do it. (Does this career exist?)
One of the most common questions I hear from brand new gardeners is, “So, do I just get packets of seeds, and start planting the seeds right in the ground?” For many crops, yes. But for several, this doesn’t work well. Here’s a guide to what you can “direct sow” by seed right in the ground, what you need to plant via starts, and even what crops you plant by something other than seed.
The following crops are quite easy to grow, and you can plant seeds straight in the garden. Seed packets are cheap, so these crops give you an incredible bang for your buck. When planting any seeds in your garden, create a nice “seed bed” in which to plant. This means working and loosening the soil with a garden fork, digging in some compost, breaking up any big clumps with a hoe, and then working any small clumps in your hands so the soil is nice and fine. You can plant seeds in shallow furrows, or “broadcast” them into a defined area (for instance, instead of planting leaf lettuce in rows, you might toss out lettuce seeds in a 4-foot-by-4-foot area, and then cover the seeds with fine soil). Anytime you plant by seed, tamp down the soil with your palms after you cover the seeds with soil, water everything in well, and you’re done. Keep the area moist (but not overly wet) as your seeds germinate and begin to grow.
Arugula
Asian greens (such as bok choy)
Beans
Beets
Carrots
Cilantro
Collard greens
Corn
Dill
Lettuce
Mustard greens
Okra
Parsley
Parsnips
Peas
Radishes
Spinach
Swiss chard
Turnips
These crops are best planted as transplants, also called “starts.” Grow your own starts indoors, or get them from the farmers market or a garden center. Loosen the soil well before planting, and dig some compost into the planting hole. Plant your starts deeply, tamp down the soil around each plant, and water well immediately after planting.
Basil
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Celery
Eggplant
Kale
Onions
Peppers
Tomatoes
These crops will do fine when direct-sown by seed, but also work really well as starts. By using starts, you get a jump start time-wise, and will be harvesting mature veggies sooner in the year.
Cucumbers
Melons
Squash
Zucchini
Buy a start of these herbs, plant them in your herb garden, and they’ll come back year after year.
Chives
Lavender
Marjoram
Mint
Oregano (may need some protection to survive winter in colder climates)
Rosemary
Sage
Sorrel
Tarragon
Thyme
Garlic (plant cloves ideally in fall; can also be planted by cloves in spring)
Potatoes (in spring, plant golf-ball-sized chunks of potatoes with a couple of “eyes” per chunk)
Sweet potatoes (planted via slips)
These fruits and veggies are planted in various ways, and generally take a year or two to become well-established and start producing a harvestable crop. So, they may not be the best choices for brand new gardeners. (But I don’t want to discourage you! Dive in if you’re living in a spot where you know you’ll be for the long-term.)
Artichokes
Asparagus
Blackberries
Blueberries
Horseradish
Raspberries
Rhubarb
Strawberries
I hope these lists help new gardeners decide what crops will work well for them—and give them some of the info they need to jump in and grow some delicious, beautiful food. Gardening is the healthiest addiction I know of—and I’m happy to nudge anyone through the gateway.
Lettuce photo by Flickr/ilovebutter; tomato photo by Flickr/J. Chris Vaughan; cucumer starts by Flickr/angies; thyme by Flickr/david.dames; strawberries by Flickr/meaduva
One of the most common questions I hear from brand new gardeners is, “So, do I just get packets of seeds, and start planting the seeds right in the ground?” For many crops, yes. But for several, this doesn’t work well. Here’s a guide to what you can “direct sow” by seed right in the ground, what you need to plant via starts, and even what crops you plant by something other than seed.
Direct-Sow Vegetables and Herbs
The following crops are quite easy to grow, and you can plant seeds straight in the garden. Seed packets are cheap, so these crops give you an incredible bang for your buck. When planting any seeds in your garden, create a nice “seed bed” in which to plant. This means working and loosening the soil with a garden fork, digging in some compost, breaking up any big clumps with a hoe, and then working any small clumps in your hands so the soil is nice and fine. You can plant seeds in shallow furrows, or “broadcast” them into a defined area (for instance, instead of planting leaf lettuce in rows, you might toss out lettuce seeds in a 4-foot-by-4-foot area, and then cover the seeds with fine soil). Anytime you plant by seed, tamp down the soil with your palms after you cover the seeds with soil, water everything in well, and you’re done. Keep the area moist (but not overly wet) as your seeds germinate and begin to grow.
Arugula
Asian greens (such as bok choy)
BeansBeets
Carrots
Cilantro
Collard greens
Corn
Dill
Lettuce
Mustard greens
Okra
Parsley
Parsnips
Peas
Radishes
Spinach
Swiss chard
Turnips
Transplant Crops
These crops are best planted as transplants, also called “starts.” Grow your own starts indoors, or get them from the farmers market or a garden center. Loosen the soil well before planting, and dig some compost into the planting hole. Plant your starts deeply, tamp down the soil around each plant, and water well immediately after planting.
Basil
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Celery
Eggplant
Kale
Onions
Peppers
Tomatoes
Crops You Can Direct-Sow or Plant as Starts
These crops will do fine when direct-sown by seed, but also work really well as starts. By using starts, you get a jump start time-wise, and will be harvesting mature veggies sooner in the year.Cucumbers
Melons
Squash
Zucchini
Perennial Herbs to Plant Once Via Starts
Buy a start of these herbs, plant them in your herb garden, and they’ll come back year after year.
Chives
Lavender
Marjoram
Mint
Oregano (may need some protection to survive winter in colder climates)
Rosemary
Sage
Sorrel
Tarragon
Thyme
Oddball Crops That Aren’t Planted by Seed
Garlic (plant cloves ideally in fall; can also be planted by cloves in spring)
Potatoes (in spring, plant golf-ball-sized chunks of potatoes with a couple of “eyes” per chunk)
Sweet potatoes (planted via slips)
More Perennial Crops
These fruits and veggies are planted in various ways, and generally take a year or two to become well-established and start producing a harvestable crop. So, they may not be the best choices for brand new gardeners. (But I don’t want to discourage you! Dive in if you’re living in a spot where you know you’ll be for the long-term.)Artichokes
Asparagus
Blackberries
Blueberries
Horseradish
Raspberries
Rhubarb
Strawberries
I hope these lists help new gardeners decide what crops will work well for them—and give them some of the info they need to jump in and grow some delicious, beautiful food. Gardening is the healthiest addiction I know of—and I’m happy to nudge anyone through the gateway.
Lettuce photo by Flickr/ilovebutter; tomato photo by Flickr/J. Chris Vaughan; cucumer starts by Flickr/angies; thyme by Flickr/david.dames; strawberries by Flickr/meaduva
March 23, 2013
6 Great Garden Tools
My definition of a great garden tool is
multifaceted: It should be durable, practical, easy to use and helpful in
multiple situations. Plus, it should not only aid you in accomplishing gardening
tasks, it should also ultimately help you grow more food. Even for gardeners
like me—someone who prides herself on reusing materials, making do with what I
have, and gardening on a budget—these six tools are worth adding to the garden
shed.
1. Long-Handled Circle Hoe
The circle hoe has a small metal circle at the
end, one side of which is sharpened. This hoe style is ideal for weeding right
up against mature plants and between tightly planted rows. You can even use a
circle hoe in between tiny seedlings if you’re using the square-foot gardening
method or other intensive planting techniques.
You can drag the circle through the soil tight
against your rows, adding in a tiny chopping motion if needed. This minimal
motion makes for a much more controlled weeding job, meaning you don’t have to
worry about accidentally chopping into your seedlings. It’s also far easier on
your back and knees than weeding by hand or with hand tools.
Keep your circle hoe sharpened, and it will
even cut through heavier clay soils. Because of the hoe’s shape, it won’t move
your soil toward you as you weed—the soil simply slips through the circle.
However, turn the hoe slightly sideways and it will work just as well as a
triangle hoe for creating small furrows in which to plant seeds.
2. Broadfork
The broadfork, also known as a U-bar digger,
is an essential tool for no-till gardeners concerned with nurturing the soil
food web. Even if you don’t follow a strict no-till philosophy, if you’re
cultivating more than, say, 1,000 square feet of garden space, it’s time to
befriend a broadfork.
Because your garden soil is home to extensive
networks of critters, fungi and microorganisms—many of which form mutually
beneficial relationships with plant roots—minimizing soil disruption will leave
these networks intact, thus leading to a more successful garden. The broadfork
allows you to loosen soil before planting and dig in compost with the least
amount of soil disruption. The large tines of the fork dig deep while keeping
the layers of soil mostly in place. Earthworm burrows and strands of fungal
networks can be rebuilt much more quickly if soil layers aren’t inverted or
completely mixed up as they would be with tilling.
This tool makes good sense for gardeners who
try to maximize their harvest potential by succession sowing. Instead of
hauling a tiller out every week when you want to sow a new area, you can easily
loosen small areas with your broadfork. Even though a broadfork is a large
tool, almost anyone can use it. The tines dig into the ground as your body
weight rests on the U-bar and you make a back-and-forth rowing motion with your
arms.
3. Pitchfork or Garden Fork
With images such as American Gothic firmly planted in our minds, it’s more natural to think
of pitchfork as a traditional tool for an austere farmer rather than a
gardener. But I find that a pitchfork, sometimes called a digging fork or garden fork (depending, generally, on the thickness of the tines), is my
go-to tool in many situations. If you have to loosen soil in a really small
area—for example, if you’ve pulled out a spent plant in late summer and are
about to sow a small patch a fall greens—a garden fork will work as a
mini-broadfork. It doesn’t dig down quite as deep, of course, but it’s narrower
than a broadfork so it won’t disturb nearby plants if you’re only loosening a
tiny area. I find that a fork is much more effective at loosening soil
than a hoe, plus it disrupts soil layers less.
A garden fork is also useful for picking up and
moving around mulch material such as loose hay or leaves. In addition, you can
easily use your fork to stir up your compost heap and to harvest root crops
such as carrots, potatoes and sweet potatoes.
Finally, the garden fork is an unlikely ally in
dealing with tough weeds. Many weeds, such as Bermuda grass, bindweed and
ground ivy, will become far worse with tilling or vigorous hoeing as the root
fragments are spread around and will sprout again, creating an even denser weed
problem than you had to begin with. Minimize spreading the weed by using your
fork to carefully dig weeds at the roots (this works best if done an hour or
two after a heavy rain or watering). Because the fork digs down with only thin
tines, it will potentially break and leave behind fewer roots than a shovel
would. Use your fork to dig up weeds with a deep taproot such as dandelions,
too.
4. Manual Hedge Trimmers
Hedge trimmers can be a gardening Godsend—and
I don’t mean just for your landscaping. They work wonders when you want to take
out large plants at the end of the season and chop the plants into manageable
pieces.
For instance, your compost pile becomes
wild-looking fast if you’re throwing whole tomato plants, pepper plants, okra
plants and corn stalks onto it. With well-sharpened hedge trimmers, you can simply
chop down these large plants bit by bit (you can choose the size, but I cut
corn stalks into about 6-inch-long pieces), and then you have wonderful fodder
for your compost heap. These smaller pieces of stalk, stem and vine not only
make for more compact composting, but they’ll also break down much faster. This
method won’t be realistic if you’re growing 40 long rows of corn, but it will
work for many small-scale home growers.
As a bonus, you have the hedge trimmers on
hand to shape and prune bushes and other large perennials. Use the trimmings
for your compost pile, too.
5. Garden Shears
Garden shears are more heavy-duty than typical
scissors, and they generally have a serrated edge that can grip tough stems. My
favorite use for shears is harvesting. If you try to harvest certain crops that
have thick stems (eggplants, peppers, okra, etc.) by using just your hands, you
can actually damage the plant by accidentally ripping off a whole branch. Using
shears to snip off mature fruits is faster and ensures you don’t damage plants.
Garden shears are handy to have in the garden
for cutting string or twine you’re using to create a trellises or tie plants to
supports. Shears also make quick work of harvesting herbs and
cut-and-come-again crops such as Swiss chard. Use them for cutting off any diseased
or damaged sections of plants and for small pruning jobs (you may want to use actual
pruning shears for larger jobs).
This tip has an ick factor, but I don’t mind
admitting that since I always have my shears close by, I often use them to
quickly end the life of a tomato hornworm when I see one.
6. Hand Sickle
For thousands of years, growers around the
world have been using sickles and scythes to reap grains (a scythe is similar
to a sickle, but with a longer handle and usually a longer blade). If you grow a
small patch of a grain such as wheat, use a sickle for harvesting by grabbing handfuls
of the grain with one hand and, with the other hand, sweeping the sickle below
where you’re holding.
Even if you don’t grow grains, a sickle can be
useful for other jobs. For example, if you grow any cover crops and want to
harvest the mature crops for mulch material, a sickle is the perfect partner
for the job. Harvest the crop with the same grab-and-sweep method that you’d
use for wheat, and lay the material down around plants to provide a beneficial
mulch that will retain moisture, suppress weeds and add organic matter to the
soil.
A sickle can come in handy for certain weeding jobs as well, especially
if chopping down well-established weeds before digging out the roots with your garden fork.
Sources for High-Quality Garden Tools
As with a piece of furniture, it’s best and less wasteful in the long run to buy an item that may
cost a little more up front but that will last a lifetime (or more). In that
spirit, these suppliers are known for making exceptionally durable tools for
the home and market gardener.
Circlehoe: Specialty tool-makers
of—you guessed it—quality circle hoes.
Grants Pass, Ore.;
800-735-4815
Clarington Forge: Classic tools from the
only large-scale forge still producing forged garden tools in England (products
available in the U.S. through Robert Larson Company).
England; 800-356-2196
Fiskars: A company with a global
reputation for innovation that makes great garden shears and other tools.
Madison, Wis.; 608-259-1649
Green Heron Tools: High-quality tools,
equipment and gear specifically created for women farmers and gardeners.
New Tripoli, Pa.;
610-844-5232
Hoss Tools: Owners of this company
founded in 2009 are avid gardeners who grew up on a farm, and they’re on a
mission to make great tools.
Park, Ga.; 229-769-3999
Johnny’s Selected Seeds: A seed company equally
well-known for its large selection of both unique and traditional garden tools.
Waterville, Maine;
877-564-6697
Meadow Creature Artisan Farming Implements: Makers of a
super-durable, effective broadfork that comes with a lifetime guarantee.
(Bonus: This company donates three percent of all proceeds to sustainable
agriculture projects in their community.)
Vashon, Wash.;
360-329-2250
Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply: An environmentally
conscious company that sells cost-effective, state-of-the-art tools and
supplies specifically targeted to the needs of organic growers.
Grass Valley, Calif.;
888-784-1722
Hoe photo from circlehoe.com; broadfork photo from Meadow Creature; garden fork photo from Clarington; shears and hedge trimmer photos from Fiskars; sickle photo from natureworks.com.
Hoe photo from circlehoe.com; broadfork photo from Meadow Creature; garden fork photo from Clarington; shears and hedge trimmer photos from Fiskars; sickle photo from natureworks.com.
Tags:
gardening,
recommended tools,
soil
February 01, 2013
Fresh Meal Ideas No. 1: Orzo Pasta with Kale and Roasted Butternut Squash
First up in my new Fresh Meal Ideas series is an easy, flavorful pasta dish. Pasta provides a perfect blank canvas for highlighting seasonal vegetables. While I love pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil, I’m unfortunately not pulling those summer delights out of the garden (or finding them at the farmers market) in late January. What I did have on hand was kale and squash, which sounded like an excellent flavor combo.
I started by roasting a large butternut squash I picked up at the farmers market last fall. Winter squashes—such as butternuts, spaghetti squash, acorn squash and delicatas—have a long storage life, so when you see them at your farmers market, stock up and stash them away for winter eating. (There are two main keys to eating seasonally and locally throughout winter: storage crops and preserved foods.) We have several winter squashes sitting on our dining room table right now.
Slow-roasting squash in your oven is super-simple, and it brings out the incredible sweetness of the fruit. Butternuts are especially good when prepared this way. They taste like pie. Really—a dense, delicious, nutritious food that stores well and tastes like pie (jump on the squash bandwagon if you’re not already there). To roast a butternut, cut it in half long-ways, and scoop out the seeds (save the squash seeds for roasting and you’ll have a fine treat later). I usually cut those two chunks in half again to make four large pieces total. Set the chunks face-up in baking dish, add a half-inch of water to the pan, and put it in a 400-degree oven. Bake for about 90 minutes, or until the squash meat is very soft when pierced with a fork. I error on the side of overcooking squash, as I actually like when the corners brown.
It works well to roast squash ahead of time so you have it on hand to add to dishes such as pasta (that’s what I did in this case). After the squash is cooked and has cooled a bit, the skin is easy to peel off with a small knife.
For this pasta dish, cut the butternut squash into large chunks after you peel it.
Next up, prep your pasta. I used organic, vegetable orzo pasta for this dish. I like getting different types of organic pastas in bulk at our local co-op—and I generally bring in large zip-top bags or mason jars to fill up with bulk pastas and other grains so I don’t create any packaging waste. I wash out and re-use zip-top bags dozens of times before they bite the dust. This particular bag used to house frozen carrots from the garden.
Boil the orzo pasta in water until tender, drain, and set aside.
Next, melt a couple of tablespoons of pastured butter in a large skillet (use olive oil instead if you prefer). I used Tillamook butter from the Tillamook, Ore., dairy cooperative. Tillamook makes excellent products—if you’re an Oregonian, you’re probably very familiar with its cheddar cheeses—and they don’t give hormones such as rBGH (also called rBST) to their dairy cows. There’s a good chance any non-organic butter, yogurt, cheese or other dairy product purchased at the supermarket came from cows pumped with rBGH, a genetically engineered synthetic hormone used to boost milk production. This artificial hormone, originally developed by Monsanto, is banned in 31 countries and has been shown in several studies to increase risk of cancer (especially breast and prostate cancer) in humans. It’s not so hot for the dairy cows either, increasing likelihood of lameness and a painful condition called mastitis— which, in turn, means increased use of antibiotics in the cows. Yuck to all of that. Always look for organic dairy products and/or those from smaller, local dairies that don’t use growth hormones.
After you melt your no-thanks-to-cancer butter in a skillet, toss in half of a chopped onion and about a cup and a half of chopped kale. Sauté on medium heat for about 5 minutes, and then add a few cloves of fresh, finely chopped garlic. Sauté for a couple of more minutes, and then toss in the chunks of squash and cooked orzo pasta.
Stir well and heat a minute or two more, and grind in some cracked black pepper and sea salt. Serve as is, or serve with a bit of grated cheese on top.
So how does this fresh meal idea stack up on a few important criteria? Let’s check it out.
Local?
The kale (a lacinato type) came from my backyard garden. Kale is incredibly cold-hardy, so if you have a garden, you should be able to keep it growing into winter. You can also grow it or find it at market in fall, chop it roughly, and freeze it for winter use. The winter squash and onion came from my local farmers market. I bought both items in bulk in fall to have on hand for winter use. I bought a big box of onions in October that we keep in the cool garage, and have been using all winter. The garlic came from a local farm and I purchased it at our co-op—which is where I also purchased the pasta. The pasta itself was not made locally—so that’s one area for improvement. The butter was produced here in Oregon, but could have been even more local had I made it myself (making my own butter is one goal I have for the future).
Sustainable?
Everything I used in this dish was organic—not necessarily “Certified Organic,” but organic (the farm I bought the onions and squash from doesn’t certify, but everything is “no spray”). So I know that no polluting chemicals were used in producing these ingredients. Because I used mostly local ingredients, there aren’t a lot of food miles associated with this meal. I didn’t create any trash in making this dish—only some compost.
Healthy?
Kale and squash are both nutrient-packed foods. Kale has cancer-fighting compounds and butternut squash is rich in vitamins A and C. Garlic boosts immunity and has many other health benefits (some people I know make it a point to eat at least a clove of raw garlic every day). Butter from pastured cows has healthful properties and is far-and-away better for us than any butter-wannabe monstrosities such as margarine. This meal was free of pesticide residues, GMO ingredients, and synthetic hormones—a status that seems like it would be the norm for foods, but sadly isn’t. I’d say this meal was quite healthy.
Delicious?
This dish was incredibly good—especially thanks to the rich, sweet flavor of the roasted squash. I like the flavor of kale, but some people find it a bit overpowering. Sautéing it in butter with garlic and onions tempered the green’s flavor a bit, hopefully making this a tasty meal even for those suspect of kale (I live with someone who’s suspect of kale, so I know this viewpoint exists).
Simple?
Easy as pie—actually, way easier. Because I roasted the butternut squash a day ahead of time, the preparation and cook time of this meal totaled about 15 minutes. If you plan to roast your squash the same day you’ll make a pasta dish with it, just start the squash a couple of hours before mealtime.
As with any recipe, I invite you to experiment and make this your own. Use other vegetables if you can’t find kale or butternut squash. Add some diced chicken from a local, pastured bird for a protein boost. Use extra garlic and perhaps some herbs to amp up flavor. If you try this dish, leave a comment and let me know how it turned out!
I started by roasting a large butternut squash I picked up at the farmers market last fall. Winter squashes—such as butternuts, spaghetti squash, acorn squash and delicatas—have a long storage life, so when you see them at your farmers market, stock up and stash them away for winter eating. (There are two main keys to eating seasonally and locally throughout winter: storage crops and preserved foods.) We have several winter squashes sitting on our dining room table right now.
Slow-roasting squash in your oven is super-simple, and it brings out the incredible sweetness of the fruit. Butternuts are especially good when prepared this way. They taste like pie. Really—a dense, delicious, nutritious food that stores well and tastes like pie (jump on the squash bandwagon if you’re not already there). To roast a butternut, cut it in half long-ways, and scoop out the seeds (save the squash seeds for roasting and you’ll have a fine treat later). I usually cut those two chunks in half again to make four large pieces total. Set the chunks face-up in baking dish, add a half-inch of water to the pan, and put it in a 400-degree oven. Bake for about 90 minutes, or until the squash meat is very soft when pierced with a fork. I error on the side of overcooking squash, as I actually like when the corners brown.
It works well to roast squash ahead of time so you have it on hand to add to dishes such as pasta (that’s what I did in this case). After the squash is cooked and has cooled a bit, the skin is easy to peel off with a small knife.
For this pasta dish, cut the butternut squash into large chunks after you peel it.
Next up, prep your pasta. I used organic, vegetable orzo pasta for this dish. I like getting different types of organic pastas in bulk at our local co-op—and I generally bring in large zip-top bags or mason jars to fill up with bulk pastas and other grains so I don’t create any packaging waste. I wash out and re-use zip-top bags dozens of times before they bite the dust. This particular bag used to house frozen carrots from the garden.
Boil the orzo pasta in water until tender, drain, and set aside.
Next, melt a couple of tablespoons of pastured butter in a large skillet (use olive oil instead if you prefer). I used Tillamook butter from the Tillamook, Ore., dairy cooperative. Tillamook makes excellent products—if you’re an Oregonian, you’re probably very familiar with its cheddar cheeses—and they don’t give hormones such as rBGH (also called rBST) to their dairy cows. There’s a good chance any non-organic butter, yogurt, cheese or other dairy product purchased at the supermarket came from cows pumped with rBGH, a genetically engineered synthetic hormone used to boost milk production. This artificial hormone, originally developed by Monsanto, is banned in 31 countries and has been shown in several studies to increase risk of cancer (especially breast and prostate cancer) in humans. It’s not so hot for the dairy cows either, increasing likelihood of lameness and a painful condition called mastitis— which, in turn, means increased use of antibiotics in the cows. Yuck to all of that. Always look for organic dairy products and/or those from smaller, local dairies that don’t use growth hormones.
After you melt your no-thanks-to-cancer butter in a skillet, toss in half of a chopped onion and about a cup and a half of chopped kale. Sauté on medium heat for about 5 minutes, and then add a few cloves of fresh, finely chopped garlic. Sauté for a couple of more minutes, and then toss in the chunks of squash and cooked orzo pasta.
Stir well and heat a minute or two more, and grind in some cracked black pepper and sea salt. Serve as is, or serve with a bit of grated cheese on top.
So how does this fresh meal idea stack up on a few important criteria? Let’s check it out.
Local?
The kale (a lacinato type) came from my backyard garden. Kale is incredibly cold-hardy, so if you have a garden, you should be able to keep it growing into winter. You can also grow it or find it at market in fall, chop it roughly, and freeze it for winter use. The winter squash and onion came from my local farmers market. I bought both items in bulk in fall to have on hand for winter use. I bought a big box of onions in October that we keep in the cool garage, and have been using all winter. The garlic came from a local farm and I purchased it at our co-op—which is where I also purchased the pasta. The pasta itself was not made locally—so that’s one area for improvement. The butter was produced here in Oregon, but could have been even more local had I made it myself (making my own butter is one goal I have for the future).
Sustainable?
Everything I used in this dish was organic—not necessarily “Certified Organic,” but organic (the farm I bought the onions and squash from doesn’t certify, but everything is “no spray”). So I know that no polluting chemicals were used in producing these ingredients. Because I used mostly local ingredients, there aren’t a lot of food miles associated with this meal. I didn’t create any trash in making this dish—only some compost.
Healthy?
Kale and squash are both nutrient-packed foods. Kale has cancer-fighting compounds and butternut squash is rich in vitamins A and C. Garlic boosts immunity and has many other health benefits (some people I know make it a point to eat at least a clove of raw garlic every day). Butter from pastured cows has healthful properties and is far-and-away better for us than any butter-wannabe monstrosities such as margarine. This meal was free of pesticide residues, GMO ingredients, and synthetic hormones—a status that seems like it would be the norm for foods, but sadly isn’t. I’d say this meal was quite healthy.
Delicious?
This dish was incredibly good—especially thanks to the rich, sweet flavor of the roasted squash. I like the flavor of kale, but some people find it a bit overpowering. Sautéing it in butter with garlic and onions tempered the green’s flavor a bit, hopefully making this a tasty meal even for those suspect of kale (I live with someone who’s suspect of kale, so I know this viewpoint exists).
Simple?
Easy as pie—actually, way easier. Because I roasted the butternut squash a day ahead of time, the preparation and cook time of this meal totaled about 15 minutes. If you plan to roast your squash the same day you’ll make a pasta dish with it, just start the squash a couple of hours before mealtime.
As with any recipe, I invite you to experiment and make this your own. Use other vegetables if you can’t find kale or butternut squash. Add some diced chicken from a local, pastured bird for a protein boost. Use extra garlic and perhaps some herbs to amp up flavor. If you try this dish, leave a comment and let me know how it turned out!
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